tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-76222699793725809132024-02-27T09:40:19.999+10:30Whitelion WindsurfingWindsurfing and Speedsailing DIY, Windsurfing Product Reviews, Windsurfing Video, Speedsailing Locations.Unknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger98125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7622269979372580913.post-89828092833327946822018-09-21T13:30:00.000+09:302018-09-21T13:36:05.999+09:30Board Building Project - HD Creeper 58 (BIG speed board) - Pads & Paint<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Finished Board Specs:</div>
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Width - 58cm</div>
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Length - 245cm</div>
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Volume ~ 100L</div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7622269979372580913.post-79892294039593744972018-09-21T13:29:00.004+09:302018-09-21T13:29:50.153+09:30Board Building Project - HD Creeper 58 (BIG speed board) - Filler Coat & Wet Sand<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7622269979372580913.post-56556677643046471832018-09-21T13:29:00.002+09:302018-09-21T13:29:37.697+09:30Board Building Project - HD Creeper 58 (BIG speed board) - Deck Laminate<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7622269979372580913.post-66292131899516468532018-09-21T13:29:00.000+09:302018-09-21T13:29:23.379+09:30Board Building Project - HD Creeper 58 (BIG speed board) - Hull Laminate<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7622269979372580913.post-74283486820413714072018-09-21T13:28:00.000+09:302018-09-21T13:28:31.076+09:30Board Building Project - HD Creeper 58 (BIG speed board) - Deck Sandwich & Inserts<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7622269979372580913.post-85499111398698700402018-09-21T00:09:00.000+09:302018-09-21T00:09:02.590+09:30Board Building Project - HD Creeper 58 (BIG speed board) - Shaping & Bottom Sandwich<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7622269979372580913.post-38542930713816446272018-09-21T00:03:00.003+09:302018-09-21T12:42:35.373+09:30DIY - Laminating Hot Box / Layup Table / Cutting Table<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">Making a board in winter can be a frustrating exercise with many epoxies requiring minimum temperatures of around 20 degrees Celsius to cure correctly. Up until recently I have only built boards in the summer months as I didn't want to risk burning the shed down with any of the usual methods such as heat lamps or domestic fan heaters. The other problems with lights are a huge delta-T over the surface of the board and most of the heat generated is lost. Of course you can enclose the board with the lights but then have an even greater risk of overheating near the lights and a possible fire! I also began to laminate on a table and found it was hard to get a large enough workspace to laminate the cloth in one flat section. The solution was a Hot Box!</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">The Hot Box allows you to: </span></span><br />
<ul>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">gently warm your laminating resin</span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">warm the board to be laminated</span> </span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">warm the cloth to be laminated</span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">cut cloth without repositioning</span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">maintain resin temperature during laminating</span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">maintain precise curing temperature of the laminate</span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">store blank foam when not in use </span></span></li>
</ul>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">Heating is provided by 2 x 400W fan forced block heaters with a digital temperature controller with temperature ramping. These allow gentle heating of the air with continual circulation; it really is a big fan forced oven. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">There is a slot near the edge of the door to clear a vacuum tube and I have added wheels to stand up the box when not in use. I recommend you have someone help you lift it onto its wheels though as it can be dangerous if you slip and flatten yourself! </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">I tied to save a few $ on insulation and use sisalation as the coldest nights in the shed would be about 5 degrees celsius. Also the plywood insulates fairly well on its own. If you were wanting to minimise operating costs or work in consistently low temperatures I would insulate all of the inner surfaces except the top and bottom. On the bottom I would place the insulation underneath to maintain the hard wearing floor. On the top I would place insulation on top once the board is inside as you need the lid to conduct heat for laminating and pre warming the cloth.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">So far I have utilised the Hot Box to make 2 boards and have had no problems running it all night. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">I will do a drawing if there is any interest in the comments!</span></span><br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7622269979372580913.post-58264584835383881042016-02-13T16:26:00.001+10:302016-02-15T00:28:30.076+10:30CNC Machining a 1/10th Scale Sailboard<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/onj6df2aq2s" width="560"></iframe><br />
<br />
Here is a quick video of a 1/10 scale model I machined of the HD Slalom 83. The objective was to view both the hull and deck concaves and to check all of the other contours looked ok before I sent the template files off for laser cutting. The plan is to cut the full sized board when I have finished my large scale CNC router.<br />
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Normally the hull would be machined before the deck since it is more critical for performance than the deck. Also you can vac dag the hull before machining the deck for added dimensional stability, and machine trim the hull sandwich and rail tuck below the wide point of the rail.<br />
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In the video the deck was machined first as it was easier in this case, but, unfortunately I squeezed the polyester bog supports out wider than the tape on the foam and a few small strips of the deck got eaten.<br />
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Hopefully I can post about modelling the board in SolidWorks and what works for me.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7622269979372580913.post-3167928442604935452016-02-07T23:46:00.001+10:302016-02-07T23:46:35.292+10:30HD Customs - Slalom 83 (150L)I have finally finished my latest build - the Slalom 83 (formally Creeper 83, I am reserving creeper for the speed boards ;)<br />
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The final specs are:<br />
Width: 83cm<br />
Length: 247cm<br />
Volume: 150L<br />
Weight: 8.5Kg<br />
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I went in a new direction with this design and incorporated a double vee flowing into a tri-panel vee in the tail. The intention is that it will plane early but not become flighty at speed or with smaller sails. I tried the board out yesterday at the top of its range and couldn't find fault. The shoulders never caught in the chop or dragged in the troughs and wheelies were predictable and easily controlled.<br />
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Gybing was fascinating as there was so much variety on offer. I could bury the full rail for a drawn our slalom style turn or snap it around quickly off the back foot. Alternatively, I could use a combination of the two which worked well in the lulls - Fast entry with a sharp tail turn after the rig flip to enter the new tack squarer to the wind. Also since the board planes so early and the straps are free from the flow I was going a slow as 8 knots on the exit and remained on the plane.<br />
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The board is made solid and there is a bit of extra weight in twin delta stringers, this board is made to last and take the punishment of the chop and my local. <br />
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Needless to say, I can't wait for my next session closer to the middle of the boards sail range.<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7622269979372580913.post-57549071539613843152015-08-29T01:41:00.002+09:302015-08-29T01:41:27.431+09:30Board Building Project - HD Creeper 48 - Stage 8 - Clear Coat, Pads & Non-skid<div style="text-align: left;">
Time for the final clear coat, sanding and non-skid. I will keep a matt finish which shows
the weave when wet - just like the finish on fins. My non-skid was late
night inspirado and I already don't like the waistcoat looking front -
this will change down the track. Also had a bit of trouble with the
non-skid fisheyeing over to 1200 finish underneath - another experience
for the memory bank. This will be the last clear finished board I do,
opaque sanding coats are so much quicker to finish.</div>
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<img class="forumPostTextImage" src="http://www.seabreeze.com.au/img/photos/windsurfing/8201609.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></div>
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Clear coat, none under the pads to save weight.</div>
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<img class="forumPostTextImage" src="http://www.seabreeze.com.au/img/photos/windsurfing/8201611.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></div>
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Clear coat tail.</div>
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<img class="forumPostTextImage" src="http://www.seabreeze.com.au/img/photos/windsurfing/8201613.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></div>
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Wet and dry of the clear coat.</div>
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<img class="forumPostTextImage" src="http://www.seabreeze.com.au/img/photos/windsurfing/8201762.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></div>
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Wet and dry finished.</div>
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<img class="forumPostTextImage" src="http://www.seabreeze.com.au/img/photos/windsurfing/8201764.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></div>
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Pads and non-skid finished.</div>
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<img class="forumPostTextImage" src="http://www.seabreeze.com.au/img/photos/windsurfing/8201766.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></div>
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Hull sanded. </div>
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<img class="forumPostTextImage" src="http://www.seabreeze.com.au/img/photos/windsurfing/8201768.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></div>
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Nose clear coat.</div>
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<img class="forumPostTextImage" src="http://www.seabreeze.com.au/img/photos/windsurfing/8201770.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></div>
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Finished tail.</div>
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<img class="forumPostTextImage" src="http://www.seabreeze.com.au/img/photos/windsurfing/8201772.jpg" height="300" width="400" /> </div>
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Ready to Rock. </div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7622269979372580913.post-25427290642046118202015-08-29T00:16:00.001+09:302015-08-29T01:40:42.648+09:30Board Building Project - HD Creeper 48 - Stage 6 & 7 - Hull & Deck Lamination<div style="text-align: center;">
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Deck is
bagged(200g Twill carbon, 130g plain glass + patches) and initial
sanding is almost finished. Next up is to fill a few low spots I should
have filled before glassing but couldn't be stuffed, then a finishing
coat for polishing.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
I glassed(2 x 130g plain glass +
patches) the hull old school(not
bagged) and everything was sweet until some gassing of the dcell
combined with some crimped glass to form a few bubbles. Yet more repair
work. The newer surfboard glass(130g) seems to use smaller glass
bundles(and have larger openings in the weave) which leaves more resin
on the layup table. I think the layup might have been on the dry side
as a result which doesn't help. I probably should have glassed the hull
on the board then feathering the 2 layers around the rail would have
been easier.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
There are a few tricks I tried for the hidden (under carbon) inserts which worked well.</div>
<br />
<img class="forumPostTextImage" src="http://www.seabreeze.com.au/img/photos/windsurfing/8165752.jpg" height="240" width="320" /> </div>
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Deck Laminate Vacuum Bag<br />
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<img class="forumPostTextImage" src="http://www.seabreeze.com.au/img/photos/windsurfing/8165754.jpg" height="240" width="320" /> </div>
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Mast Track Bagged<br />
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<img class="forumPostTextImage" src="http://www.seabreeze.com.au/img/photos/windsurfing/8165756.jpg" height="240" width="320" /> </div>
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Tail Bagged<br />
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<img class="forumPostTextImage" src="http://www.seabreeze.com.au/img/photos/windsurfing/8165758.jpg" height="240" width="320" /> </div>
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Unwrapping fun!<br />
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<img class="forumPostTextImage" src="http://www.seabreeze.com.au/img/photos/windsurfing/8165760.jpg" height="240" width="320" /> </div>
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Deck Weave</div>
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<img class="forumPostTextImage" src="http://www.seabreeze.com.au/img/photos/windsurfing/8165762.jpg" height="240" width="320" /> </div>
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Footstrap Insert Plugs revealed<br />
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<a href="http://www.seabreeze.com.au/img/photos/windsurfing/8165766.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" class="forumPostTextImage" src="http://www.seabreeze.com.au/img/photos/windsurfing/8165766.jpg" height="240" width="320" /> </a></div>
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Footstrap Insert Plugs sanded flush</div>
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Footstrap Insert Plugs flicked out <br />
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<img class="forumPostTextImage" src="http://www.seabreeze.com.au/img/photos/windsurfing/8165768.jpg" height="240" width="320" /> </div>
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Deck lightly sanded (sacrificial glass layer on top.</div>
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<img class="forumPostTextImage" src="http://www.seabreeze.com.au/img/photos/windsurfing/8165770.jpg" height="240" width="320" /> </div>
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Deck Sanded</div>
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<img class="forumPostTextImage" src="http://www.seabreeze.com.au/img/photos/windsurfing/8165772.jpg" height="240" width="320" /><br />
Deck Sanded</div>
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<img class="forumPostTextImage" src="http://www.seabreeze.com.au/img/photos/windsurfing/8165774.jpg" height="320" width="240" /> </div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7622269979372580913.post-29314236496186097842015-08-16T22:26:00.000+09:302015-08-16T22:26:44.738+09:30HD Creeper 83 - Sneak PeekHere is a sneak peek of my latest board build. There will be more detail to follow...<br />
<br />
Its an 83cm slalom which is a bit of a Frankenstein with bits inspired by this and that.<br />
<br />
The final design is a development of this design I was working on almost 3 years ago - <a href="http://whitelionwindsurfing.blogspot.com.au/2012/09/board-building-project-hd-s82.html">http://whitelionwindsurfing.blogspot.com.au/2012/09/board-building-project-hd-s82.html</a><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7XNH92_yBiw/VdCDpvypCdI/AAAAAAAADT8/65WHzETAz28/s1600/Creeper-83-Per-Rear-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="203" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7XNH92_yBiw/VdCDpvypCdI/AAAAAAAADT8/65WHzETAz28/s320/Creeper-83-Per-Rear-2.jpg" width="320" /></a> </div>
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HD Creeper 83 Cad Model - Perspective</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxtLYpsxtxlY2mHR3OiCyJkDgC31UMp71CF3Qrb5DCMutAck0-tih-DNLSXt1p3vroXpigntLSv5folKy_pHUmCJshXCsJBD56MZWnFAk7dlH1bRL62__5MRNFBI23qBXLaVu9VteOyO4/s1600/Creeper-83-Plan-Side.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="166" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxtLYpsxtxlY2mHR3OiCyJkDgC31UMp71CF3Qrb5DCMutAck0-tih-DNLSXt1p3vroXpigntLSv5folKy_pHUmCJshXCsJBD56MZWnFAk7dlH1bRL62__5MRNFBI23qBXLaVu9VteOyO4/s320/Creeper-83-Plan-Side.jpg" width="320" /></a> </div>
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HD Creeper 83 Cad Model - Plan and Side Elevation</div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VrI4KOfW60s/VdCFVKtdi1I/AAAAAAAADUc/i9mcoLMy27c/s1600/Creeper-83-Deck-Toolpath.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="192" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VrI4KOfW60s/VdCFVKtdi1I/AAAAAAAADUc/i9mcoLMy27c/s320/Creeper-83-Deck-Toolpath.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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HD Creeper 83 - Toolpaths</div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4zIKjlmNCMg/VdCG1qt9w5I/AAAAAAAADVQ/Bs4vYZ6RjTA/s1600/HD-Creeper-83-Machining.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4zIKjlmNCMg/VdCG1qt9w5I/AAAAAAAADVQ/Bs4vYZ6RjTA/s320/HD-Creeper-83-Machining.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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HD Creeper 83 - Mowing Foam</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-321hU8jXl_c/VdCG3JIASBI/AAAAAAAADVY/MohRGZeBiTs/s1600/HD-Creeper-83-Machining2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-321hU8jXl_c/VdCG3JIASBI/AAAAAAAADVY/MohRGZeBiTs/s320/HD-Creeper-83-Machining2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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HD Creeper 83 -Foam Side</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7622269979372580913.post-18654049322147666312015-08-10T21:21:00.001+09:302015-08-29T00:11:46.592+09:30Board Building Project - HD Creeper 48 - Stage 5 - InsertsFoot strap inserts, track, box and breather base are in.<br />
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<img class="forumPostTextImage" src="http://www.seabreeze.com.au/img/photos/windsurfing/8165669.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></div>
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Marking out the fin box.</div>
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<img class="forumPostTextImage" src="http://www.seabreeze.com.au/img/photos/windsurfing/8165671.jpg" height="300" width="400" /> </div>
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Fin box router template.</div>
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<img class="forumPostTextImage" src="http://www.seabreeze.com.au/img/photos/windsurfing/8165673.jpg" height="300" width="400" /> </div>
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Routed Fin box on hull.</div>
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<img class="forumPostTextImage" src="http://www.seabreeze.com.au/img/photos/windsurfing/8165675.jpg" height="300" width="400" /> </div>
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Fin box trimmed to deck line.</div>
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<img class="forumPostTextImage" src="http://www.seabreeze.com.au/img/photos/windsurfing/8165677.jpg" height="300" width="400" /> </div>
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Fin box flush with hull.</div>
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<img class="forumPostTextImage" src="http://www.seabreeze.com.au/img/photos/windsurfing/8165679.jpg" height="300" width="400" /> </div>
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Foot strap inserts dry fitted.</div>
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<img class="forumPostTextImage" src="http://www.seabreeze.com.au/img/photos/windsurfing/8165681.jpg" height="300" width="400" /> </div>
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Edge of foot strap holes chamfered for glass wings.</div>
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<img class="forumPostTextImage" src="http://www.seabreeze.com.au/img/photos/windsurfing/8165746.jpg" height="400" width="300" /> </div>
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Inserts fitted and glass wings taped flat. </div>
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<img class="forumPostTextImage" src="http://www.seabreeze.com.au/img/photos/windsurfing/8165748.jpg" height="300" width="400" /> </div>
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Goretex vent base fitted.</div>
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<img class="forumPostTextImage" src="http://www.seabreeze.com.au/img/photos/windsurfing/8165750.jpg" height="400" width="300" /> </div>
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Tape removed and filler applied. </div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7622269979372580913.post-89242289024721676932014-12-16T23:35:00.001+10:302014-12-16T23:35:46.414+10:30Board Building Project - HD Creeper 48 - Stage 4 - Deck SandwichWell I have been meaning to finish off this series of posts on the Creeper 48 build but one thing led to another and I haven't! Comments are from the my seabreeze post at the start of the year during the build. Creeper 58 coming soon...<br />
<br />
I have got the tricky stage out of the way, now I can sleep easy not
having to worry about the vacuum running all night. Tried out the
aluminium clamping system on the bag and it worked a treat although it
is pretty tight with 2 x 200um sheets/1 tube. I used 12x12 channel with
6mm PVC tube. Next up are the fittings...<br />
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Using up scraps, 3mm plain on the left, perforated on the right. </div>
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Pre-forming the Dcell with a heat gun. </div>
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Softened the winglet for continuity of the sandwich, will restore the wing with filler after the deck is laminated.</div>
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Tail panels fitted so that they can support the deck sandwich from below. </div>
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Gunking the rails for the Dcell wrap. </div>
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Fitting the bag and critical rail join. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2TcGLQT7QAfJJ_v2WnT5fKlUhpjajimoGJy1r5LjQCUltEMqf4M7yy8J2qbNiOfMJdIALklYjyjXRfufmYoF6AtZRbQzvO9Y4WBaGlX51drt2ZJdx3UkVSi6awIDWdnWMkyDHAuqc4t0/s1600/P1050494.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2TcGLQT7QAfJJ_v2WnT5fKlUhpjajimoGJy1r5LjQCUltEMqf4M7yy8J2qbNiOfMJdIALklYjyjXRfufmYoF6AtZRbQzvO9Y4WBaGlX51drt2ZJdx3UkVSi6awIDWdnWMkyDHAuqc4t0/s1600/P1050494.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a> </div>
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Flipped over in the morning with the heat lamps on - bit of a cold spell at the moment with nights in the low 10's.</div>
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Bag seal with 12mm channel and 6mm ID PVC tube. </div>
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Deck sandwich trimmed with the snap-off knife blade. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsQE_xtB652njcLlXuk4t9f4mgRYba2KV0kz6g3kiA0tik505ux_DZ1aLacI7D1O1OZQHq8fLTCFXEatFuUGWfWOkgDGBNwvdPFe22mfGm2gTfW-YojYoRam_wbznAHwzok4OuONSggGQ/s1600/P1050508.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsQE_xtB652njcLlXuk4t9f4mgRYba2KV0kz6g3kiA0tik505ux_DZ1aLacI7D1O1OZQHq8fLTCFXEatFuUGWfWOkgDGBNwvdPFe22mfGm2gTfW-YojYoRam_wbznAHwzok4OuONSggGQ/s1600/P1050508.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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Finished composite Dcell deck - no more scraps left, just in time as my
bulk shipment of Corecell and Dcell has just arrived for the next 3
boards! Love it! </div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7622269979372580913.post-28812816667741721732014-04-07T21:51:00.000+09:302014-04-07T22:03:15.811+09:30Board Building Project - HD Creeper 48 - Stage 3 - Shaping the DeckI am not one to rip into full length cuts using a plane, I prefer to mark out the rails and hotwire them. I like to create the hotwire guide lines from the CAD model and these allow you
to remove the bulk of the deck roll and rail while maintaining a smooth
flowing shape. The faceted faces on the rail are then fine tuned with a sanding block with 80, then blended/rounded using 80 and then 120 grit. <br />
<br />
If you try to shape only sections of the rail to the finished profile you will end up in all sorts of trouble and it will show on the finished board - there will be really bumpy highlights and reflections. I like to create construction geometry around the rail profile at various intervals along the length of the board. Then I create some tangent lines at key angles and extend these to what would be the outline of the EPS block. The position where the tangent line meets the block is marked and all the matching tangent - surface intersections are joined along the length of the board using the outline and rocker templates as giant french curves. Using these curves also helps the volume flow nicely as you are using the same curves with which the outline was cut. You also need to mark the wide point clearly to allow the rail tuck to be shaped correctly.<br />
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<br />
So I went to shape the lower rails(below the wide-point) and found I had made a error on the
tuck calculation - I allowed for the 3mm shell on the outline but not on
the pre-cut 6mm Dcell on the Hull. I ripped off 3mm from the wide-point
with the router, squared them up, re-marked the wide-point and re-blended the rails. The Dcell
hull was trimmed with my tuck template using a snap-off knife. <br />
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Next was the deck concave which was originally going to be 3mm, I
changed it to 6mm. The mast track area steps down an even 2mm from the
hot-wired deck. <br />
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<br />
Next up is smoothing the rough sand and fitting the deck
sandwich.
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7622269979372580913.post-39002023448612879022014-02-21T23:29:00.001+10:302014-02-21T23:29:27.862+10:30Board Building Project - HD Creeper 48 - Stage 2 - Bottom SandwichWell I am a few steps ahead of this post so I thought I had catch up otherwise I will never find the time...<br />
<br />
Well our recent heatwave has stretched the timeline a little, 40 degrees
in the shed over the weekend and the high risk of blackouts meant
bagging the bottom was too risky. Last night we had gale force winds and
blackouts in adjacent suburbs so I thought I would do what Forest Gumps
mate did on the shrimpin boat and try my luck with taunting the weather
gods otherwise the board will never get finished. With the howling wind
it was pretty hard to find bag leaks and my first run with the new
vacuum system highlighted a few issues: <br />
<ul>
<li> I need a much bigger vacuum reservoir for the bigger bags which
always seem to have a few leaks. I like FormulaNova's idea in the Seabreeze vacuum
system thread of the pipes down the shed wall... </li>
<li> I won’t try sealing the vacuum tube in a mastic "zip" in the bag
opening again! Get it sealed and it opens 15 minutes later. </li>
<li>I need to cut the bloody corner off of my rocker stick so I can feed
the bag on more easily. </li>
<li>I need to tape the FULL length of the rocker stick to the Dcell. </li>
</ul>
The power was on when I woke up and the digital alarm clock wasn't
blinking so I was relieved. I went out to the shed to find only -4kPa on
the gauge but the bag had good clamping force, looks like the base went
on well. The stupid mastic wad worked itself free from around the
suction tube so I think I will go back to the old through bag fitting. I
will also try out some clip lock seal on the ends of the bag as I use
really heavy 200um LDPE for durability. The mastic/tacky tape used was
purchased in 2007 and may have lost some of its sealing and leak filling
properties as the folded tape in the corner folds of the bag were
creating slight leaks at the end of the tape and not staying sealed.<br />
<br />
I tried placing the rail and outline templates on the deck to
equalise the forces on the foam, looks like it worked pretty well
combined with the low clamping force of -25kPa with 5kPa hysteresis
kicking it up to 30. I still have the stringer 9mm proud on the deck so
the templates butted up nicely to the side rather than overlapping and
pushing on the stringer. If the templates were to overlap they might
fight against the clamping pressure of the rocker stick holding the hull
d/cell onto the underside of the stringer.<br />
<br />
I made some changes to the tail by adding some winglets behind the
front foot, widening the tail under the back foot and then adding some
bigger wingers behind the back foot for a pinnier tail.<br />
<br />
Last night I finished hotwiring the plan,
and marked out the rails for shaping. I ended up squaring off the nose
to match the tail and I have always liked them anyway...
<br />
<br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7622269979372580913.post-41700557955229970742014-02-11T21:01:00.000+10:302014-02-11T21:02:31.973+10:30Lake George Glass (Video)Following on from my <a href="http://whitelionwindsurfing.blogspot.com.au/2014/02/a-lake-george-speed-run-video.html" target="_blank">Lake George Speed Run</a> video is this vid of a light wind session with a few glassy patches. The wind was probably 13-18 at most!<br />
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<object height="360" width="640"><param name="movie" value="//www.youtube.com/v/WCKu9oQrWW0?version=3&hl=en_US&rel=0"></param>
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<embed src="//www.youtube.com/v/WCKu9oQrWW0?version=3&hl=en_US&rel=0" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="640" height="360" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true"></embed></object>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7622269979372580913.post-60647356926497545032014-02-05T20:23:00.000+10:302014-02-05T20:23:51.091+10:30A Lake George Speed Run (Video)Here is a short clip of the "normal" speed run at Lake George(near Beachport in South Australia). The launch is on the northern side of cocky's point with the upwind leg heading WSW. Winds on the day were only into the low 30's and I ended up with a PB 10s average of 43.89 <a href="http://gpsteamchallenge.com.au/sailor_session/show?date=2013-03-01&team=22" target="_blank">GPSTC</a><br />
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<object height="360" width="640"><param name="movie" value="//www.youtube.com/v/L2XK6mswnKc?hl=en_US&version=3&rel=0"></param>
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<embed src="//www.youtube.com/v/L2XK6mswnKc?hl=en_US&version=3&rel=0" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="640" height="360" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true"></embed></object>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0Lake George, Beachport SA 5280, Australia-37.3941073 140.00849979999998-37.5958873 139.6857763 -37.1923273 140.33122329999998tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7622269979372580913.post-531085913064890012014-01-30T22:53:00.000+10:302014-01-30T22:53:56.719+10:30DIY - Handheld Hotwire CutterI thought I would share my experiences sourcing parts for the new Handheld Hotwire Cutter I have just completed. Previously I used wire from a TV coil hooked up to various car battery chargers that had a factory set current output. These worked occasionally but you never had much control of the wire temperature. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZVIDZhayA18/UueeVrEqkGI/AAAAAAAACog/-RRnSdkLHeQ/s1600/P1050255.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZVIDZhayA18/UueeVrEqkGI/AAAAAAAACog/-RRnSdkLHeQ/s1600/P1050255.JPG" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hotwire Foam Cutter</td></tr>
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After scouring the pages of ebay I came across a neat little hot wire power supply from Australia. There were 2 options for maximum wire length(when used with the recommended nichrome wire) of 1m and 1.5m and the unit ended up costing around $100. I went for the 1m version as I will only be cutting the short side of full EPS blocks and I didn't want wires burning out when cutting thinner material.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hotwire Power Supply</td></tr>
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The unit weighs next to nothing and is quite compact so I mounted it to the hotwire bow for ease of adjustment. You can get optional wire with the banana connectors on request.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hotwire Termination</td></tr>
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Mounting of the wire is achieved by looping it around a bolt in between 2 washers, a wingnut is then tightened to clamp the wire between the washers. The end of the wire hangs out for easy connection to the power supply.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hotwire Bow Spring Tensioner</td></tr>
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The wire lengthens when heated so one end of the bow pivots on a socket head cap screw. An old trampoline spring maintains the required spring tension. Folded 50x3 aluminium flat bar is folded to form the opposite fixed connection as well as the hinge seen above. Scraps of 45x35(?) pine were used for the arms but these might be upgraded to CF roll wrap tube when I have more time.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Freshly cut EPS without sanding...</td></tr>
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This is the first board(HD Creeper 48) cut with the hotwire and the above foam is straight off the wire with no sanding whatsoever.<br />
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7622269979372580913.post-35231813135485300132014-01-28T22:46:00.000+10:302014-01-28T22:50:00.166+10:30Board Building Project - HD Creeper 48 - Stage 1Well I am up to my elbows in foam again and I must say I have really missed it. The last board I built was in 2007 and this time round I have done things properly and have not cut corners. First up was a dedicated vacuum system followed by a new hot-wire bow with dedicated power supply(not just a battery charger putting out whatever current it factory set). I am also cutting full size 3mm MDF hot-wire templates, I used to use thick cardboard which could get burnt if the hot-wire got snagged.<br />
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So far I have:<br />
Designed the board and printed full size templates on my A0(roll) printer.<br />
Cut full size templates for center rocker, side rocker(to form the vee), plan and tuck templates.<br />
Cut each side of the board with its panel vee.<br />
Laminated the halves together with a 3mm PVC stringer to preserve the intended rocker line.<br />
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Here are the progress pics:<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7622269979372580913.post-4473306401800012862014-01-23T23:20:00.000+10:302014-01-26T12:35:46.920+10:30Board Building Project - HD Creeper 48<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Well my Lake George Speed Sailing trips are only a month away so what better time to start a speed board!<br />
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I am a bit of a Minecraft fan and I like how Creepers sneak up on you and all you hear is a little sssssSSSS before the blow you to smithereens, hence the name. Hopefully I don't blow anyone else up using the board as I think I shopped in the close shave department last year...<br />
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<b>Shape</b><br />
The board will be slightly narrower and longer than my previous speed board (JP Speed 49) and I have settled on 48 wide x 245 long. The rocker is nice and gradual with low nose lift and there is a small amount of tail kick to free the board at the top end. A simple panel vee will form the bottom contour with the deck getting a slight concave for increased stiffness and reduced nose lift.<br />
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<b>Construction</b><br />
I will be using as many scraps and offcuts as possible except for the core, I have purchased a half size SL grade (~12kg/m3) block(120x60x250cm) for this and future boards . Deck sandwich will be 3mm H80 Divinycell with the hull in 6mm H100. Both of these are perforated but that is all I could get locally when I purchased materials for my last board in 2007. In my next board I will probably use corecell as I have heard that it is easier to work with and maybe airex. Skins will be a glass hull with full carbon deck(200g twill). I am only using the board at Lake George and temperatures only get to the high 20's, low 30's so I'm not concerned about overheating.<br />
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<b>Fittings</b><br />
I have leftover foot strap inserts, a mast track and Tuttle box from previous builds and have gone the Goretex breather route getting a nice little unit from Shapers on the Gold Coast. I have some 1/2" PVC foam and may encase the track and box this time as I am not as concerned with weight on a speed board.<br />
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<b>Method</b><br />
I will hotwire as much of the bottom shape as possible including the vee, the outline will then be cut using templates as well. See my hotwire here: (coming soon). I will break down each of the build steps into a separate post as they are completed.<br />
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Here are some more renderings of the design:<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">HD Creeper 48 </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">HD Creeper 48 Tail</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">HD Creeper 48 </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">HD Creeper 48 </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">HD Creeper 48 Nose</td></tr>
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7622269979372580913.post-75773043316832459372014-01-16T23:59:00.000+10:302014-01-16T23:59:00.321+10:30DIY - Vacuum Bagging System<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fjjuXiXMadc/UtfHaZHe7qI/AAAAAAAACbk/QBLWJ5PDoJE/s1600/P1050214.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fjjuXiXMadc/UtfHaZHe7qI/AAAAAAAACbk/QBLWJ5PDoJE/s1600/P1050214.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The "Smart Little Sucker"</td></tr>
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With a few board designs in the pipeline it was time to upgrade my vacuum pump to a system with vacuum pressure control. Up until know I have used the cheap fridge pump option and while you may save a lot of money on the initial outlay you soon loose money if you damage a blank(or 2 as I did!!!!) using excessive vacuum pressure. The vacuum pressure control is achieved by using a tee fitting with a ball valve in combination with a vacuum gauge. While this setup may be good for small bagging jobs and high vac pressures with robust moulds I have had problems bagging boards where the vacuum pressure is stable for several hours and then a leak or hole suddenly seals itself and the pressure goes throught the floor(really low ;). Since the vacuum has to be maintained for 12 hours or so this makes bagging overnight risky.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xlu02-GisgM/UtdKSGn3WVI/AAAAAAAACao/ri1ItduR90Q/s1600/P1050212.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xlu02-GisgM/UtdKSGn3WVI/AAAAAAAACao/ri1ItduR90Q/s1600/P1050212.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My old fridge pump system.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The pump was fan cooled on big jobs.</td></tr>
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The next step up from using a ball valve is a diaphragm and reed switch but I am not a fan of this version due to the lack of precise control as well as questionable electrical safety.<br />
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I wanted precise vacuum control without the pump having to run continuously and came across this veneer vacuum system from Veneer Supplies.Com: <a href="http://www.veneersupplies.com/products/Project-EVS-Auto-Cycling-Pump-Vacuum-Press-Kit.html">http://www.veneersupplies.com/products/Project-EVS-Auto-Cycling-Pump-Vacuum-Press-Kit.html</a><br />
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I was able to scrounge most of the required components from the parts bin at work except for a vacuum controller. I decided to use an SMC electronic vacuum switch for accurate control and the hysteresis function to reduce frequent pump switching.<br />
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The need for a small footprint as well as portability meant than I had to stack the components using a plywood shelf system. This is the prototype which will probably stay this way - functional!<br />
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Working from the Air Fitting back there is a ball valve to isolate the system from the vacuum bagging line. The ball valve is connected to the vacuum reservoirs(tubes of nothingness...) which are separated by a takeoff for the vacuum switch. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mX_Qh3KcReI/UtdKLRS-l8I/AAAAAAAACaI/4SECuxRyWN0/s1600/P1050180.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mX_Qh3KcReI/UtdKLRS-l8I/AAAAAAAACaI/4SECuxRyWN0/s1600/P1050180.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vacuum Reservoirs.</td></tr>
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The reservoirs are then connected to a check valve(one way valve) to store the vacuum in the reservoirs.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-32CabeKwSm4/UtfHZE7eTAI/AAAAAAAACbU/Aa2GOypDGwc/s1600/P1050216.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-32CabeKwSm4/UtfHZE7eTAI/AAAAAAAACbU/Aa2GOypDGwc/s1600/P1050216.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Top view of Vacuum Reservoirs, Vacuum switch and Check Valve.</td></tr>
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Connected to the check valve is a 3 way solenoid valve to relieve the vacuum pressure behind the check valve when the pump is switched off by the vacuum switch. This stops the pump having the start under load. Next up is a under bench water filter which acts as both a line filter and sub reservoir. The sub-reservoir allows the pump the run to full RPM without back pressure on the pump intake port. Connected to the filter is a small diaphragm pump which is oil free and super quiet when an exhaust muffler is fitted.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lRX-xfaBEUk/UtfHab7LlVI/AAAAAAAACbg/5eGY2TCz47s/s1600/P1050215.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lRX-xfaBEUk/UtfHab7LlVI/AAAAAAAACbg/5eGY2TCz47s/s1600/P1050215.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">3 Way Valve, Sub-reservoir/Filter and Pump.</td></tr>
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Below the pump is a small termination box housing the terminals, 24v Power Supply and Contactor. The Vacuum switch outputs a signal to the contactor which switches off the pump and opens the exhaust valve at the desired vacuum pressure.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8iPxrfM6Bf9Lo2Rk1U5TRPTNS78TFexIZ2tIKGBBgtREMiIOCrGUxGV2Gjdwpses9W8U5ZNyABc6GpWs1kBFaq_I78OfvMyi5uolZOqTF2Qr73E6nhYTdEV9wsZjCo76aZtv9jN5YY2s/s1600/P1050178.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8iPxrfM6Bf9Lo2Rk1U5TRPTNS78TFexIZ2tIKGBBgtREMiIOCrGUxGV2Gjdwpses9W8U5ZNyABc6GpWs1kBFaq_I78OfvMyi5uolZOqTF2Qr73E6nhYTdEV9wsZjCo76aZtv9jN5YY2s/s1600/P1050178.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Terminals, Contactor and 24V P.S.</td></tr>
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Next up is a test run on a new board or 2!Unknownnoreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7622269979372580913.post-54535722815937979262013-09-16T00:02:00.000+09:302013-09-16T00:02:21.623+09:30MxR UFO - Initial Impressions<div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">
We have finally had some wind after the Autumn doldrums which means some TOW! I have got to sail the MxR UFO 38 three times now. Two of those sessions resulted in spot PB's so they seem to be working well! </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1CV9XWtAQME/Uh1yVHIHfNI/AAAAAAAACVw/Ycgvit5Vidk/s1600/P1040472.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" height="400" osa="true" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1CV9XWtAQME/Uh1yVHIHfNI/AAAAAAAACVw/Ycgvit5Vidk/s400/P1040472.JPG" title="MxR UFO 38" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">MxR UFO 38</td></tr>
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I have gone withe the UFO in my smaller blasting fins for control in the chop that we get at Boggy Lake. 34 is for use on my 90L slalom with a 6.9 & 6.2 and 38 is for the 112L slalom with 6.9 and possibly 7.7 if juiced up on flattish water. I am using Katana fins from 40cm up for a bit more raw power when the water is flatter and control is not as much of an issue.<br /><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-x89hjCWNbdY/Uh1yfdDiUyI/AAAAAAAACWY/X9_xZW6zohs/s1600/P1040700.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-x89hjCWNbdY/Uh1yfdDiUyI/AAAAAAAACWY/X9_xZW6zohs/s320/P1040700.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">MxR UFO 38 - MrL Slalom 112 - Avanti M-1 6.9</td></tr>
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I have found the UFO perfect for running the troughs and banging over the back of chop. When you bear off with the UFO you have a great confidence that the fin will take whatever awkward chop forms kick up in your path. Other fins, including some expensive carbons seem to get frisky and throw the board all over the place. Maybe it is my average skill set but the UFO seems to allow me to go faster than ever before in average everyday conditions. I also think the MrL 112 and Avanti M-1 have a part to play as they are the best board and sails I have used and they work well for me with the UFO.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfBubtAZqwcxzEtlBkiKBhKVH0ldGZr-rNh_X_fdsr5INSzI5aMLkGRhnasBnHO9aZ378zMN8rXTf-C7yylhbKootWCQqfW38QxV4TVAONjvyYoI1unTDKH6mvUk4cB0i-f6AJS5dJdWc/s1600/P1040698.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfBubtAZqwcxzEtlBkiKBhKVH0ldGZr-rNh_X_fdsr5INSzI5aMLkGRhnasBnHO9aZ378zMN8rXTf-C7yylhbKootWCQqfW38QxV4TVAONjvyYoI1unTDKH6mvUk4cB0i-f6AJS5dJdWc/s400/P1040698.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">MxR UFO 38 - MrL Slalom 112 </td></tr>
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I would recommend the UFO to anyone wanting more control WITHOUT loss of speed in average choppy sailing conditions. The fin is not highly strung and can be sailed on the redline all day without fatigue.<br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7622269979372580913.post-37554397858008283032013-05-06T13:19:00.001+09:302013-05-27T20:50:59.925+09:30MxR UFO Wide 40 - Preview<br />
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I have kept a close eye on the the MxR story and after seeing the results at Luderitz I knew it was time to get my hands on a few fins to try out. The tiny assymetrical speed fins used at Lederitz are obviously pretty specalised kit but there are many more styles in the MxR range to chose from including fins of the same outline offered with multiple profiles. The only dedicated speed spot I visit is Lake George on South Australia's south east coast. The lake has high salinity and weed which sits just below the surface so a weed shedding feed is essential. I had no problems using the Vector Delta Weed Speed fins in 2012 which had a rake of 40degrees on the 23cm and I like the feel of the wide base speed fins. The MxR Range includes the Wide 40 which describes the leading edge rake midway down the leading edge. The curved leading edge is ideal as the tip third is about 45 degrees, the mid third around 40 and the base third 35. This means you get more rake where you need it and less where you don't. <br />
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I received my MxR fins via express from the factory in Poland. The fin quality is first class and the premium cover protects you investment nicely and has some nice pockets for fin screws. I did have to sand the head slightly to fit the board but I would rather this than having a sloppy fit that requires shims. A bit of floor wax helped the fin in the box as the head seems to be a urethane with an elastomer that can grip the box if the fit is a little tight.<br />
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My last speed session of the season was just a bit late for optimum Lake George conditions and the wind was frontal, not the usual constant seabreeze. The northerly meant that the water was blowing from the lake onto the dry lake bed to the south that you usually drive over and a lot of weed beds were exposed as a result.<br />
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I headed out on my trusty JP49 and newly acquires 6.1 Avanti with the UFO Wide 22. The MxR UFO Wide 40 22cm was shedding weed well but you had to start in a muddy patch as the water was getting low from the wind blowing the water away. The fin went upwind like a pointer and was nice down as well. I really felt the shallow water and thick weed limiting peaks in the 44's but only really managed to get 2 proper cracks at 10s as the wind went from 20-30 to 30 with 40 knot random bullets.<br />
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In hindsight I should have perhaps pushed past the comfort barrier and tried a few more runs but I had to get back on the road for the 4hr drive home. All in all the session gave a good first impression of the UFO wide 22 as not just a good replacement for the 23 Delta Weed Speed(previous PB fin) but an improvement also as the tip felt stiffer and was transferring all the rider power it received. I also purchased the 26 as a replacement to the delta 27 which will have to stay dry until later in the year!<br />
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I look forward to using the fin a few more times before I write a detailed review...<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1ct_wVreaJX_fW-7-OGfgo7LwB5ONKNWLDBQb0VYTa27qoM5O3VlRyNyZXzb4GOTHWmvrdOJcfWKtKcx2A6ooj-Dt0tCsLW_nTU0gxZB_ZIm6S988l_kukuGrQEyfyP9D9hzbBIl30Fc/s1600/mXr+UFO+Wide+40_26+and+22.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" lua="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1ct_wVreaJX_fW-7-OGfgo7LwB5ONKNWLDBQb0VYTa27qoM5O3VlRyNyZXzb4GOTHWmvrdOJcfWKtKcx2A6ooj-Dt0tCsLW_nTU0gxZB_ZIm6S988l_kukuGrQEyfyP9D9hzbBIl30Fc/s400/mXr+UFO+Wide+40_26+and+22.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">26 & 22cm MxR UFO Wide 40</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fB55uV0AN-c/UVEN4VJcJgI/AAAAAAAACQk/mu4hd5cYLtk/s1600/mXr+UFO+Wide+40_+22+Cover.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" lua="true" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fB55uV0AN-c/UVEN4VJcJgI/AAAAAAAACQk/mu4hd5cYLtk/s400/mXr+UFO+Wide+40_+22+Cover.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">MxR UFO Wide 40 covers</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GCeENj2fJho/UVEN7wVR1uI/AAAAAAAACQ8/O8fIDLYzLlk/s1600/mXr+UFO+Wide+40_26+and+22+Cover.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" lua="true" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-GCeENj2fJho/UVEN7wVR1uI/AAAAAAAACQ8/O8fIDLYzLlk/s400/mXr+UFO+Wide+40_26+and+22+Cover.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">26 & 22cm MxR UFO Wide 40 covers</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-krPWcG1sv04/UVEN3nmpbVI/AAAAAAAACQc/-lDI5fQL1h0/s1600/mXr+UFO+Wide+40_22+Head.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" lua="true" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-krPWcG1sv04/UVEN3nmpbVI/AAAAAAAACQc/-lDI5fQL1h0/s400/mXr+UFO+Wide+40_22+Head.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nice de-bossed MxR Logo on the Tuttle Head</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpKyadUeIIzXKfwh2N2s32hMyGMFTkKkLgJvpTMMUrrUu-IyboiE0p2sUFRi_HRq5KWWtnhxYfhlVKVAqAO-9M-I8rzzWUhVXy7XALyUPbhAiJu3ob_6bZnmJDXIs7hbzc4VjFE269KyY/s1600/mXr+UFO+Wide+40_22+Profile.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" lua="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpKyadUeIIzXKfwh2N2s32hMyGMFTkKkLgJvpTMMUrrUu-IyboiE0p2sUFRi_HRq5KWWtnhxYfhlVKVAqAO-9M-I8rzzWUhVXy7XALyUPbhAiJu3ob_6bZnmJDXIs7hbzc4VjFE269KyY/s400/mXr+UFO+Wide+40_22+Profile.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">22cm MxR UFO Wide 40 Foil Profile</td></tr>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7622269979372580913.post-37154220272513607302012-09-09T21:49:00.000+09:302012-09-11T21:24:01.144+09:30Board Building Project - HD S82Well it has been a while since my last post so I thought I should get something up onto the blog. I have been busy juggling a young family, a BIG cubby house project plus all the usual house jobs that seem to come up all too often. I have tried to have a little fun along the way by getting out on the water(rarely) and dabbling in some design projects, one of which is a new light wind board. I started working on the design in February and it has slowly evolved in various directions to the point where I am now happy with it. Being a bigger guy I am just fedup with the selection of lightwind slalom boards currently on the market(with a few exceptions). Most of them are hard to pop over the bow wave when it is marginal and they seem to stop when you gybe underpowered. They basically have no coasting effect and need power whenever you want to do anything. The volume(or lack thereof) on most boards is aimed at high wind control, not getting a big guy back to his launch.<br />
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The final design is not too wide at 82cm but has a much longer length of 250cm and a lower overall rocker of around 180mm. I might lower the nose even more but it may be a problem in the Boggy Lake troughs. Volume is a substantial 147L with a thickness of around 125mm at the front straps. There will be 1.5mm of tail rocker with cutouts. Construction with be a carbon/glass deck with a glass hull for comfort. I hope to make a start when temperatures warm up a bit.<br />
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